Albarracin trip day six - return to Sol

Went back to Sol, to go to the other end of it. Really struggled warming up; my arms would not work, and I have very mushy thin tips on all of my fingers and thumbs. Scott did a nice roof, first or second go. I really struggled to link it until I just got really angry, and just pissed up it. Why didn't I do that the first time and save all of the skin and energy, fool? Found it hard to get pysched today, tiredness and missing the family is starting to tell. Next we tried a really cool roof traverse into a slopey top-out. Great moves, but a bit hard for me in that state. Around 7a again, but I split a tip on about fourth go and that was me done. I'd got overlapping halves on it apart from topping out, which I'd split my tip on. Scottie got overlapping halves and topped out, but then seemed to lose power, the sun came around a bit more or something and he didn't look as smooth on it. I then tucked into the baguettes while he thrashed himself on a couple of other things.

While we were in the area, we went over to Masia. That looks like it's got a few nice things to do as well, so something else to go back for. Final night, we went back to El Molina del Gato, which serves nice beer, has strange music and all of the climbing topos, including French ones so we could work out where we'd gone wrong in looking for Tierra Media. And then another disappointing meal in a place off the main square. Not sure about Spanish food; it must be better than that. Maybe we couldn't speak the language that well, but people couldn't recommend stuff either, and we were getting cold peppers out of a tin served with bad fries and indeterminate meat. Not inspiring. I was already dreaming of Thai green chicken curry.

Albarracin trip day five - return to Arrastradero

Had some unfinished business with a sit down start to an arete here, so wanted to go back. Mint conditions, quite cold and hard to warm up. Skin still felt trashed. Met up with the two guys from Bristol that we'd met at the car park earlier in the week. I think it was their first time to the area, so they were running around dead keen. Managed to do a few nice things; there was a place round the back quite similar to l'Elephant with sloping flared cracks. There was a really good-looking 7a rib (8a sit start) which I didn't try due to trying to preserve skin, and the original walls that we'd seen on our first visit to this area that we still hadn't tackled. Oh well...

Albarracin trip day four - rest day

Day four for the first rest day? Well, not really. The first day wasn't much; an hour or so of tinkering. So we've pretty much done the 2 days on, 1 day off thing. It seems to have worked out well, as this was a planned rest day, and it started raining last night.

So a very late start today, after a lot of vino tinto last night. We decided to go exploring and work out where best to go on our last two days. First off, up towards Techo. This was the first area that we found using the topo and didn't get lost! This looks like quite a brutal hardcore place. OK, so it was a rest day and we're feeling (or I am anyway) quite shredded, but most stuff here looks like you need to be doing 7b to get much out of coming here. There were some inspiring roof lines that looked around 8a; I'll save them until I've lost 10 kg and got strong again.

We carried on up the hill towards Madriles and Pyschokiller; more big stepped roofs again. Although apparently Pyschokiller might not allow climbing there. Some of the areas are restricted, but not at the time we were here.

Then we went looking for the visitor's centre that was listed on the national park signs. Unfortunately, our written Spanish was enough to understand that it was only open at weekends and holiday periods. But the drive to get there was quite something. The park seems to be raised about the plateau, and we had some fantastic views of the flood plain and the sandstone towers elsewhere. It looked like going for a walk in that area would be worthwhile on the rest day as well, if we were there for a longer period.

To round off the day, we tried to find Tierra Media, but our Spanish wasn't up to the task. We did find some striking red trees though; not sure if they were seasonally that colour, or that was their natural plumage, so to speak.

Albarracin trip day three - Sol

Well, a bit more about where we're staying. We're at Camping Albarracin. It's a somewhat strange place in terms of requiring an international bank transfer to pay the deposit, but they accept Visa when I came to pay the balance on arrival. We're in a bungalow advertised as being suitable for four, and it would do that, but it feels very bijou with just the two of us. Not sure how Andy, Emma et al will find it next week!

Went to Sol today, and again had slight problems finding our way there. We followed our Spanish topo, but went a bit far before breaking up the hill parallel to the road. Sol was good, lots of stuff to warm-up on. My skin is feeling it already though. Trying a big roof today; I couldn't quite use Scott's sequence due to not having sixty foot arms, but need to work on press moves a bit more. I couldn't quite press out over the lip enough.

Albarracin trip day two - Arrastradero

Had the most awful food at Hotel Albarracin last night. It was steak, but well-done at one end and completely raw (proper raw, not just the raw that I've had in certain French establishments. So, late start before getting up to go climbing. Lovely day again, got a bit lost going to where we intended. We went up to the main car park, and then along the road a bit before striking left into the forest, past a collection of cave paintings. This was thanks to our reading of the topo, and we had inadvertently gone to the wrong side of the hill. We noticed some enticing looking walls on the left (minimum 7a?, so a bit hard to warm up on) and eventually got to where we wanted to be. What we should have done is walked up past the swing park, until you see the climbing area on your right. But our Spanish was non-existent. Another good day, good rock and lovely area. I'm not getting any power onto the rock really, been pulling on blobs too much and got no topping out skills for these slopey topouts, so I'm struggling on everything except the crimpy overhanding walls. Scott is climbing really well, but then he climbs on rock lots! Jealous, moi!?

Albarracin trip day one

Flew into Madrid, managed to get all of the bouldering kit including my unfeasibly large extending stick on the plane and then drove the Albarracin. No map in the hire care (thanks Europcar!) but a combination of the AA and Google Maps directions got us there without any mishaps. We got there at about six in the evening and Scott was mad keen. I was more up for a beer, but we went for a drive, found some rocks and had a quick play. The rock and national park is really cool, and we were climbing as the moon came up. Beautiful. Sadly Al's got the camera this week, so I hope that my phone will suffice. Think we're going to have a good week.

How to remove a key when a 2 year old has snapped the key off in the lock

Google to the rescue again. In case this helps anyone else avoid locksmith callout charges on a Saturday, I started off here and here, and was sufficiently enlightened as to solve it myself. Try checking that the key is in the correct orientation to be removed, twisting using a screwdriver where necessary. Then you should hopefully be able to use another key to push it out from the other side, and use tweezers to coax it out the rest of the way. The suggested superglue method wasn't necessary, but is a nice trick.

Java Mock Objects tip

Discovered while using JMock, but I would imagine it's also good for EasyMock, RMock, ...


checking(new Expectations() {
    {
        one(httpServletRequest).getParameter("c");
        will(returnValue("-2"));

        one(httpServletRequest).getParameterNames();

        // StringTokenizer implements Enumeration. A bit cheeky!
        will(returnValue(new StringTokenizer("c")));
    }
});

Surgery

How I love the smell of burning vas in the evening! Recovery tips:

• treat it as a soft tissue injury and ICE it!
• Arnica; there's going to be a lot of bruising, so any old snake oil is worth a try.

Novarra makes a play for End Game

So there's been a bit of a kerfuffle over here. What's happened is that Vodafone UK have started using Novarra's content adaptation technology to transcode the internet for mobile phones. Why has this caused such irate responses in some quarters? Well, a history lesson seems to be in order...

The mobile internet started out with devices unable to render nearly all of the internet due to hardware constraints. WML was introduced as a very limited markup which phones were able to use to display content. Early WML sites were, needless to say, fairly limited in functionality, and tended to be exposed as distinct resources; e.g. Apache user-agent detection would be used to send you to http://wap.example.com/ if you accessed http://www.example.com/ with your phone. Moore's law still holds in this arena; devices got a bit more capable and iMode (CHTML) was introduced in Japan. This was initially something like HTML 2.0 / 3.2 without <table/>s, but with the better networks over there, this was somewhat more successful in the marketplace. The W3C stuck in their thumb and pulled out XHTML Basic, and then there was the related XHTML Mobile Profile.

So who is so offended by what Vodafone UK and Novarra have done? Well, mainly the mobile internet community. The solutions that the community provide have evolved over time from hand-coded WML sites, iMode sites, XHTML Basic sites, sites where the view renders the model to the appropriate markup and DIAL processors / Drutt / Volantis's offerings in this market. There is an entire industry sector dedicated to providing solutions in this area and nearly all of those solutions rely on the HTTP header User-Agent being present and being a reliable indicator of the requesting client. Novarra / Vodafone UK have introduced a fairly disruptive change which could be viewed as an attempt to change the rules of the game. They're making some pretty provacative statements along the way.

2.3.1.7 A content transformation server can do a better job of following
mobile best practices
The "Mobile Web Best Practices 1.0" W3C Proposed Recommendation [1]
contains many recommendations for authoring content that is intended for
viewing on a mobile device. A well-designed content transformation
server can do a better job of following the mobile best practices than a
human author, especially when taking into account the capabilities of
the many different mobile devices. The result will be a more
consistent, uniform experience.

I call BS. The incumbent mobile content industry is feeling the pain, but this could just be a game-changing move like Google upp-ing the storage limits on webmail. Time will tell whether the market (mobile phone customers) feels that the Vodafone UK solution is good enough, or whether a more open market will be preferred. I'm all for the Ubiquitous Web when it's good for the customer. So here's a little gedank-experiment. What happens to the mobile content industry if all carriers start using a content-adaptation proxy? How else is your company adding value? Evolving markets are hardly a new phenomenon, although maybe the rate of change is a little faster in these modern times...

Connor responding to discipline

We were out in a restaurant for Al's birthday meal and Connor was playing with the door where we were sitting. We warned him not to do that or the waitress would come over and tell him off. Five minutes later, the waitress came over and the boy's first reaction?

"I'm not touching it!"

Key log

Not blogged for a while. Usual issues:

1. Been busy at work.


2. Been on holiday and had a lot of catching up (reading blogs!)


3. Been ill

Well, I can fix the second one at least - the first thing isn't really something to complain about, and there's not a lot I can do about the third. Unsubscribed from Planet Intertwingly (sob). That should free up some more time to finish off Jython UnicodeData, read stuff and do more hacking.

Happy Birthday Babe

8 years ago I met my wife. She still amazes me every day and I can't believe how lucky I am.

Rugby World Cup - France vs Argentina

I don't think much of the English chances, but bring it on!

Update 1 9 - 17. The French seem to be choking. Lots of basic errors and not converting their chances. The Pumas are really going for it. We could be on for a massive upset and blow to the hosts (and favourites in some eyes) chances... (Loving Will Greenwood as a pundit as well).

All consuming

That's a major one of my frustrations with my current feed reader of choice dealt with then. Now, about those duplicate entries...

Amazon losing capability in core function?

I was watching Steve Yegge's talk from OSCON about branding, and one of the things he touched on was Amazon's brand is books, and they want to get out of that since Jeff Bezos thinks that certain consumables will become totally digitized. My current thinking is that they are focusing on other things anyway (hosting, anyone?) and maybe this is taking away from their original core competency. Recent orders of mine have taken a lot longer than they used to. Previously, I'd order stuff on a Monday and it would arrive on Wednesday or Thursday the same week, with Super Saver Delivery. Now it takes a lot longer. So I'm still waiting for the Erlang, ANTLR, Haskell and REST books to arrive that I'd hoped to read on holiday.

Hello Cameron

There we go, another smasher has arrived. I think there were various events and conversations that I wanted to record today, but it's late and I'm knackered. Blog more with photos tomorrow or the weekend.

Jython UnicodeData hacking in the CDS

Got numeric and decimal working today in between contractions in the Central Delivery Suite at Frimley Park Hospital today. Nearly got categories working as well, except I'm not clear how CPython has implemented unicodedata.category for undefined codepoints.

e.g. Python 2.5 uses Unicode 4.2 for the Unicode database. The integer codepoint 13313(decimal) / 3401 (hex) is not defined within Unicode 4.1.

3400;;Lo;0;L;;;;;N;;;;;
4DB5;;Lo;0;L;;;;;N;;;;;

It isn't defined in Unicode 5.0, which is what I've been using to do the Jython implementation.

3400;;Lo;0;L;;;;;N;;;;;
4DB5;;Lo;0;L;;;;;N;;;;;

So how does CPython define unicodedata.category(unichr(13313)) to be 'Lo'? And it doesn't seem to be just 'Lo' in all cases of undefined items. I'm speculating that it might be falling back to the preceding valid codepoint category. Think I need to post to a CPython list to confirm.

Google Reader Bug report - use Atom <id/> elements

I am directly subscribed to Sam Ruby's feed. I recently added Planet Intertwingly as well, which contains Sam's blog. Both feeds are served as application/atom+xml. In Google Reader, duplicate items show up (for Sam, Steve Loughran, and others that overlap from my other subscriptions. I don't want to remove individual subscriptions in case Sam removes them from Planet Intertwingly.

From my readings of the spec a while ago, that was an explicit rationale for having id's associated with each entry. As you would expect, the id's are the same. From Planet Intertwingly:

  <entry>
    <id>tag:intertwingly.net,2004:2619</id>
    <link href="http://intertwingly.net/blog/2007/07/31/Agile-Financial-Publishing" rel="alternate" type="text/html"/>
    <link href="http://intertwingly.net/blog/2619.atom" rel="replies" type="text/html"/>
    <title>Agile Financial Publishing</title>
    ...
  </entry>

From Intertwingly:

  <entry>
    <id>tag:intertwingly.net,2004:2619</id>
    <link href="2007/07/31/Agile-Financial-Publishing"/>
    <link rel="replies" href="2619.atom" thr:count="1" thr:updated="2007-07-31T12:15:28-04:00"/>
    <title>Agile Financial Publishing</title>
    ...
  </entry>

Those atom:id element IRIs appear to be the same to me...

Objective review of why Vista pisses me off (or Why isn't Vista more like Ubuntu?

So I'm being completely upfront in the title as to where I am on this one, but I think that it's worth giving some airtime to a few of these. Readers might care to note that they should route around the "grumpy Yorkshireman that doesn't like change" for some of these. You never know, I might get some comments explaining why I'm a bozo when it comes to Windows.

Avalon and the new Windows Aero UI.

I gave it two weeks and then I'd had enough. Does it really make me more productive having all that shit, or is it just effects for the sake of it? I have the same opinion on Compiz - I haven't yet seen a compelling reason for it to exist, beyond being secretly sponsored by Nvidia / ATI to make people get shiny new graphics cards. Let the conspiracy theorists chew on that one. And despite paying Dell more for a fancy graphics card in this laptop,



apparently it's not that good.

Blue screen of Death

No really, I had one in my first week, and I've had one since then. Lovely. Occasionally (once a quarter?) when running Ubuntu Dapper, I've had X lock up on me and be completely unresponsive, to the extent that I couldn't even switch to a virtual terminal or ssh into the box and do something to it. The first time this happened, I went climbing at lunchtime, came back and it was still borked, so just a hard reboot to fix that. A reboot once a quarter on a development machine doesn't strike me as too bad. Vista is managing once a week at the moment, and in neither case am I writing C or any system level code. It's all Java / Python / Ruby and that sort of level.

Black screen of death

That was a Vista new feature for me; I've never had that on previous versions of Windows. This is progress people!

Still no decent shell

I'm using Cygwin, but it doesn't seem to let me tail files and press Return to get some space in between lines. Minor, but annoying.

Continual swapping

Previously I was on a 2GB RAM Dell workstation, and now I have a 2GB RAM Dell laptop. The laptop is always swapping. What's changed? Well, I'm now on Vista rather than Ubuntu and I'm not running Oracle XE anymore, but otherwise the services running are much the same. IDEA / Eclipse, Tomcat, MySQL, Firefox, intermittent email client and a text editor. Don't know why Vista is always swapping (TaskMngr thinks it has 700MB free) but it's bloody annoying.

Broken file permissions

Doing a release today, the VPN crashed (don't know if that was Vista, BT, the Windows 2003 Server or something else. That appears to have left me with the following undeletable file.



So Vista has let me create a file that I don't have the rights to delete. That's smashing!

Random security policies

Or that's what I'm guessing is causing this anyway. If so, then a learning mode like AppArmor has would be nice. See


and



No, when I ask for a large amount of heap to be allocated for my Java process, I don't really know what I'm doing, so please stop me. Thank you Vista, you're my hero.

Update: LazyWeb to the rescue, at least about the disk thrashing issue.